A straight free silhouette, soft cotton matting, a simple pattern without any complicated details and a couple of weekends are all you need in order to sew a beautiful new dress.
As a basis, I took the pattern of a direct dress from the November issue of Burda magazine for 2013.
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These patterns are identical, with the exception of fabrics and individual details of the dress - the decorative finish of the neckline.
You will need:
✂ dress fabric 150 cm wide 140 cm (cotton, rayon, jacquard, fabrics in the style of Chanel);
✂ tape measure tape;
✂ tailor pins and magnetic needle bar;
✂ tailor's crayon or chalk wheel;
✂ ruler for allowances and a long ruler;
✂ spreader;
✂ scissors for cutting and small scissors for cutting threads;
✂ threads and needles for the sewing machine and hand sewing;
✂ silk oblique trim;
✂ pattern
Step 1
Re-draw on the tracing paper the details of the shelf, back and sleeves.
It is not necessary to remove the details of pockets and hemings of the neck, since we will sew the dress without pockets, and we will process the neck with an oblique trim.
Step 2
Place the details of the paper pattern on the shelf and back of the dress on the fabric exactly to the fold and pin it with tailor pins.
Cut the shelf and back with one-piece cut without an average seam with allowances for seams - 1.5 cm, for hemming - 4 cm.
To cut parts with equal allowances, select the appropriate marking on the ruler, lay the ruler on the fabric end-to-end to the paper pattern and begin cutting, gradually moving the ruler forward.
Step 3
Change the cutout depth by increasing it.
Since the fabric of the dress is colorful, increase the depth, see the figure:
On the line of the middle of the front, retreat from above 1.5−2 cm. Put a mark. Then draw a new neckline. Cut out. Also, increase the neckline neckline. If necessary, adjust the neckline in the first fitting.
Since in this master class we use colorful fabric in the Chanel style, after cutting the details, it will be necessary to mark the darts and all the marks with the help of copy stitches.
Step 4
Cut out the details of the sleeves.
Step 5. Tucks
Sweep the tucks.
Sew tucks by starting a line from the side cut.
Tighten at the beginning of the seam.
Tie the stitches tight at the top of the tuck and hide the thread inside the tuck.
Remove the mark, cut the ends of the threads.
Iron tuck depths down.
Step 6. Side seams
Fold the front and back of the dress with the front sides to each other.
Chip or sweep parts along side cuts.
Get off.
Step 7. Shoulder stitches
Fold the shoulder sections of the front and back to the front side and chip. Stitch shoulder sections.
Step 8
Iron the seam allowances, and then sew together on the overlock or in a zigzag stitch on a sewing machine.
Iron the seam allowances on the back.
Since our fabric is slightly voluminous so that the allowances of the side and shoulder seams are made flatter, carefully sew them to the dress with a hidden stitch.Do not tighten the thread.
Basic Hand Stitches
Step 9
Fold the sleeve details with the front side inward, aligning the sections.
Chop (or sweep) and grind.
Iron the seam allowances and then overcast.
Sew the seam allowances carefully to the sleeves by hand with a hidden stitch (exactly the same as the side seams of the dress).
Step 10
Complete the sewing stitches: sew two parallel stitches from one mark to the other (from • to •) with large stitches. Lay one line at a distance of 2 cm from the cut, the second at a distance of 0.7-1 cm. Thus, the marked line of the seam of the sleeve is turned in between them.
Important! For convenience, stitching stitches can also be laid before sewing sleeves.
Step 11. Stitch sleeves
Using tailor pins, stick each sleeve first only into the lower part of the armhole. At the same time, align the seam of the sleeve with the side seam of the dress, as well as the transverse marks on the sleeve and on the front armhole.
Then combine the upper transverse mark on the sleeve ridge with the shoulder seam and chip.
Fit the sleeves around the steps to the size of the armhole, gently pulling the fabric on the threads of the sewing lines.
Chip the sleeve sleeve with the armhole, evenly distributing the assembly.
If necessary, sweep sleeves into armholes.
Stitch each sleeve into the armhole from the side of the sleeve, between the sewing lines at the allowance distance.
How to fit a sleeve
Important!
To make it easy to remove the basting, always lay the stitch close to the basting and use a vaporizer.
Carefully iron the oversized seam allowances of the sleeve.
And then overcast together.
3 ways to handle set-up sleeve allowances
Step 12. Processing the neckline of the dress
Cut an oblique trim from silk or a cambric of suitable color 4 cm wide.
The length of the neckline is equal to the size of the neckline plus seam allowances.
How to cut a slanting inlay from a thin fabric
Stitch the ring in a short cut.
Iron allowances. Prune.
Attach a tie or pin with tailor's pins to the neckline.
Stitch the hem at the allowance (1-1.5 cm from the edge).
Cut the allowance to 0.7 mm.
Iron the strap up.
With the protruding edge of the inlay, go around the allowance (if necessary, notice).
Unscrew the stock along with the slanting inward and notice with a small "transition".
Stitch the hem in the hem or sew it by hand with a blind stitch.
Iron the neck.
How to sew an oblique edging: 3 ways
Step 13. Processing the bottom of the dress and sleeves
In this master class, processing the bottom of the dress and sleeves is decorative.
From the remnants of the fabric, cut strips of the desired width and a length equal to the length of the bottom of the dress and cut off the sleeves. If there is not enough fabric, make the strips compound.
Use a needle or knitting needle to make a fringe - gently pulling the threads from the fabric.
Strengthen the bottom of the dress and sleeves with a straight line.
To further strengthen the slices and prevent the spilling of threads, a narrow zigzag stitch or a decorative thread can be sewn over a straight stitch.
With the help of tailor pins, pin the fringed strips to the sections of the sleeves and the bottom of the dress. Take notice if necessary.
Stitch the fringe with a narrow zigzag stitch to the bottom of the dress and sleeves.
A simple but very elegant dress is ready!
✂ In this master class, I deliberately simplified an already difficult pattern so that even beginner craftsmen could sew our dress.
✂ Changed the neck, making it round and giving up the cut.
✂ The neckline was treated with a slanting inlay instead of a trim cut.
✂ She cut the shelf and back of the dress with one-piece, without a middle seam.
✂ Since the model is quite loose and the fabric is cotton matting, the dress is sewn without lining.
✂ Instead of the traditional hem of the bottom of the dress and sleeves, I chose the decorative trim of the fringe sections from the remains of the fabric and sewed it along the edge of the bottom of the dress and sleeves.
Decorative processing of fabric sections in Chanel style: "open" way
DIY fringed braid
If you still have questions about tailoring this dress, ask them in the comments.
Easy sewing and beautiful new things for you!
The author of the master class and photo: Julia Dekanova
